It is the best technique to camouflage discolouration or uneven pigmentation on the face. Don’t get me wrong you do look like an artist’s palette when first applied and it is a bit daunting when you look in the mirror - however then end product is a flawless complexion (after foundation and setting powders)
Being a make-up artist being able to colour correct is a specialist filed and you need to really understand the anatomy and physiology of skin to be able to understand how to correct imperfections of skin conditions, there is a whole science behind colour correcting & believe me when I say it is not easy to get your head round! – Lucky for me Sarah Artistry teaches & trains this intensely to everyone of her students!
So I have made this super easy for guys and we just going to touch on the basic’s
To balance skin tones you first must look at the different types of skin colours there are to be able to understand how to balance out correctly, If you are of Fair Skin (European -English, Irish, Scottish, Welsh, Eastern European, Mediterranean) – under tones pinks, reds, general discolouration tones - purple, blue, greens etc Or if you Warmer Skin (Asian (including fair Asian skin tones), Oriental, black & Indian skin tones) – under tones yellow, olives, general discolouration tones - yellow, grey, browns, in really harsh cases black etc To correct or balance following rules should apply using the colour wheel (as below) the colour on the opposite side should be used to correct the under tone before applying foundation - you can apply on top of the foundation if you feel that the colour correction has not work sufficiently, I like to be extra generous in application so usually never have this problem
So here it s goes, the aim of the game is to cancel out the imperfection colour, by cancelling with the corrective colour. If your under eyes have a purple tone – the correcting colours should be yellow, If you have pink or red discolouration (usually due to ache or roseaca) then the correcting colours should be green as pink is the under tone for fairer skin tones. For warmer skin tones if the under eyes are grey or sallow the correcting colours should be lilac if you are of a warmer skin tone. With brown or darker patches the correcting colour would be orange for both skin tones.
Orange colour correcting will actually correct all colour imperfections – so it is actually a cheat colour so to speak. It is quiet a niche market but there' are as there are not that many different colour correction products out there and the ones that are hardly any of them work or not pigmented enough to do the job – which is why I loooooove my Sarah Artistry colour wheel (as seen below) is has amazing pigmentation to correctly colour correct and don’t just look white once applied like most products actually formulated and produced for make-up artists it does exactly what it says it does! Its a cream pigmented colour wheel consisting of the 4 main correcting colours - pink, green, yellow & lilac.
Most of the other products out there are the cheat colour orange which will correct all imperfection on all skin tones especially for sallowness around the mouth and under eyes - I do have my fave! which is Illamasqua pigment in Emerge.
However there are now correcting primers coming out on the market which that help colour correct the whole face - Make-Up Forever & Sarah-Artistry being one them and they are amazing for evening out the whole face giving it a even complexion without all the cake & ash!
Love always
Asma
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